Slept like a log! Last night, Nic and I decided that we'd go to Banco Panticosa. She wasn't keen to backtrack either, and with the possible option of delaying our reservation, we decided to press on to see how we could make this all work out.
The plan was to get to this tiny ski village and work out how long that took. Then, hike the GR11 to as close to Torla as we could get, then over into Cirque de Gavarnie. Looks like we were going to miss Ordesa unfortunately.
The hike to Banco Panticosa was brilliant. Once we'd got past the parts we'd already seen, we continued on down a much better marked, and travelled trail. Valley after valley opened up for us as we zigged and zagged our way down through the Pyrenees. Eventually off in the distance we could see the town.
And it was NOT like we thought at all. If Dubai has 80% of the worlds wealth, Banco Panticosa has the remaining 20%. This is a "small" ski village on the way up. Expecting virtually nothing, we got a huge construction project. Helicopters flying in building ski lifts, big trucks and construction workers and cranes everywhere.
We found the refuge. After finding out that lunch wasn't going to be served until 1:30pm, and after possibly the worst coffee I'd ever had outside of America, I told Nic that I wasn't eating here. Ten minutes later I'd found us the only five star hotel for miles around, and there we were - sitting down in the middle of a hike - smelling like week old socks - on white seats in a five star hotel cafe. A magnificent club sandwich, a proper coffee - which Carlos assured us was the only good coffee we'd get in Spain... (he was right) - and a plate full of chocolate that was gratuit - he felt sorry for us and thought we needed the energy - we felt rested and reenergised.
It got better. Carlos went and looked up the internet, and found us a bus that would take us from SanSomewhere to Torla. Our only problem was getting to SanSomewhere. Again, Carlos came to the rescue. The construction workers have a bus that takes them each day, back home to Panticosa, through Jica, and onto SanSomewhere. From there we could catch the bus to Torla, and - best of all - catch some of the Ordesa canyon. Even better, not only had I lunched in a five star hotel, but it looked like I'd get my three course dinner after all!!!
So, sure enough, on the bus with the workers and into SanSomewhere. Nic disappeared to buy us some of the best pastries and peaches, and then, an hour later, we were on the bus heading to Torla.
Torla is a very old town, with cobbled streets and narrow alleys. We arrived just as the locals were stirring and beginning to promenade up and down the streets. Unfortunately, none of the restaurants were serving dinner until after 8:30pm, and so, with the Ordesa canyon looming and another long hike ahead of us, we decided that it was time to move on and see how far we could get before dark. There goes my three course dinner. Nic stocked up on some dried food for the next day, and off we marched. 
Ordesa at sunset was spectacular. Running down the road as Nic got scared of the dark in the canyon was less spectacular. It's a shame that we got there so late, and we'll return to it next time I hope. With a five star lunch in my belly, I was starting to enjoy this hiking thing.
Once we got out of the canyon, in the dead of night, we started walking along this dark dirt road cut into the side of the canyon looking for a place to spend the night. For fifteen minutes we marched on, black as black, and no place to camp, No cars, no people, nothing. Just us on a dirt road. As it was now getting close to ten, and still nowhere to camp, I suggested to Nic that if a car came, then we should hitch hike as far as it would take us North. Agreeing, we continued on.
Two minutes later - seriously - a car appeared. Sticking out our thumbs a Spanish couple from Barcelona with two kids in the back stopped and squashed us in, taking us all the way up to within 3km of the town that we wanted to get to by 12:00 noon the next day. Amazing. And best of all, the restaurant was still open!!!
Three course meal here I come! Not. Nic put her foot down, explaining that she'd just spent good money on buying dried food, bread and pasta that we were NOT going to carry over the mountain tomorrow. So, if I wanted a genuine Spanish Paella coming from out of that building with the lovely smells, then that was fine - I can and she won't stop me. So I ate pasta. (And it was awful. Not because of Nics cooking, but just because I couldn't identify the dried meat that they'd put in it)
Went to bed very happy though, and ready for an early start tomorrow.